As temperatures drop, and late night snowfall begins to disrupt daily commutes, cosiness gains an irresistible appeal. “Cosy” itself becomes the VIP who must be sought out — the superstar whose presence we can’t do without. Fortunately, in most cases, cosy places are easy to find. England has its pubs, Germany its beer halls, and France its bistros. The Auvergne highlands, however, could reasonably be described as a country unto themselves. And those who really know this mountain country will tell you that, on a cold winter’s eve, few things nourish the cosiness-seeking soul better than a steaming bowl of potée auvergnate (Auvergnat stew) and the aroma of wood smouldering in the fireplace.
Here’s Visit Auvergne’s quick guide to some of Auvergne’s cosiest places.
Dark Lab Brewpub (Saint Ours, Puy-de-Dôme)
Without question, Dark Lab Brewpub is one of the cosiest places outside Clermont-Ferrand. Nestled in the well-wooded village of Saint-Ours, just a few minutes away from Vulcania theme park, Dark Lab is a brasserie that feels like a British country pub. It certainly has all the trimmings: comfy club chairs to recline on, a hearth to warm oneself by, and even an assortment of Victorianesque wall mounts and paintings to set the mood. Dark Lab’s no-frills menu, which features crowd favourites like pulled pork, homestyle french fries, and vegan curry, is perfect for a boozy lunch with friends or a laid-back dinner date.
There’s also much to love about the gastropub’s range of artisanal beers — all of which are produced in its on-site microbrewery. Good local stouts aren’t easy to find in Auvergne, but Dark Lab’s owner, Gaétan Bouyer, clearly takes brewing seriously. His oatmeal stout is maybe the best pick-me-up after a long day of work.
Auberge Paysanne (La Bessaire, Cantal)
Auberge Paysanne is family-owned restaurant located in the former municipality of Loubaresse, which is perhaps the most Gothically named place in Auvergne (in Occitan, Lobaressa can mean “haunted by wolves” or “land of wolves”). Surely, the flickering light from its windows was a welcome sight for weary travellers during its time as a stagecoach inn the 1700s and 1800s, when wolf attacks were hardly a rare occurence. Today’s restaurant, which traces its origins to the 1970s, offers a menu of classic Auvergnat dishes, such as truffade (potatoes and cheese), slow-roasted ham, and caldron-cooked stew. Impressively, Auberge Paysanne also serves a variety of homemade drinks, including dandelion liqueur, gentian, and other fruity spirits. According to owner Tom Valaix, Auberge Paysanne’s food is sourced either from his family’s own farms or from local producers. “We are perpetuating a long culinary tradition,” he says.
Le Comptoir Cyrano (Bourboule, Puy-de-Dôme)
With its wood-pannelled interiors, vintage decor, and stylised Art Deco motifs, Le Comptoir Cyrano gives off distinct Parisian vibes. The bistro-style restaurant, which occupies the former site of a hotel, sits opposite the Grand Thermes de Bourboule, a therapeutic spa whose international fame dates back to the 1820s. Although it doesn’t have the typical look of an Auvergnat brasserie, Le Comptoir Cyrano is definitely one of the Sancy region’s cosiest hangouts. Its menu also stays true to the region’s local cuisine.
Le Buron de la Chambe (Saint-Jacques-des-Blats, Cantal)
In winters past, Auvergnat shepherds isolated themselves for months in the high mountains, far away from their families. During these extended reclusions, burons — stone huts — served as their makeshift homes. Tradition has it that some of these shepherds — bergers sorciers — made an interesting use of their solitude, turning their attention to the study of magic while holing up in the cosy and dimly lit recesses of their weather-beaten abodes.
In the Cantal hamlet of Saint-Jacques-des-Blats, the Buron de Chambe transports guests back in time, letting them experience the off-the-beaten-path cosiness of a long-lost era. Accommodating up to ten people and accessible only by foot, the the chalet offers a true off-the-grid escape. Candles are the only light source for its cavernous rooms, and a modern wood-burning stove, not unlike the poêles of yesteryear, provides enough heat to keep everyone comfortably toasty. Other features include a kitchen, a bathroom with a stone tub, and two bedrooms fitted with sheepskin blankets.
500 Diables (Chambon-sur-Lac, Puy-de-Dôme)
500 Diables is situated on the fringes of the scenic Chaudefour Valley in what was once the the former ski resort of Chambon-des-Neiges. The restaurant boasts exposed timber ceilings as well as heirloom furniture, plus other rustic paraphernalia, such as tinware, heirloom furniture, cowbells, and wooden sleds. Its tables are cosily orientated around a central fireplace, adding to the communal ambience. Although it’s normally popular with families and hikers, during the annual Sancy Snow Jazz Festival, 500 Diables hosts intimate concerts, transforming — pretty seemlessly — into a date-night destination.
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