The landscape of Auvergne is marked by its medieval past and its volcanism, and the Tuscan-like hill town of Le Broc serves as a striking example of how these features often combine to make a bright, visual opera, playing out the melodramas of centuries before the eyes.
While the town itself offers much to see (especially for the historically- or architecturally-minded), in recent years, Michelin-starred chef Adrien Descouls has literally created a new landmark —the Hotel Restaurant Origines — among the ruins its most prominent feudal castle. Since its founding, Origines has received plaudits, not just for the elegance of its food and ambience, but also for the gastronomic approach and artistry of its founder.
Visit Auvergne caught up with Chef Descouls to learn more about his unique philosophy and views on Auvergne cuisine.
A.D. Manns: Did you grow up with parents or grandparents who were very passionate about the culinary arts?
Adrien Descouls: Yes, on my mother’s side, there’s a real history of cooking. My great-grandmother worked in grand establishments such as the George V and the Plaza Athénée. My grandmother was an exceptional cook, with a very instinctive sense of taste. My mother, for her part, doesn’t cook much, but she passed on something essential to me: a respect for good produce, for beautiful ingredients, and a natural standard of excellence in what we put on the plate.
AM: At what age would you say you started to develop a love for cooking? When did you decide that you wanted to pursue a career as a chef?
AD: I think it all fell into place gradually, but there was one key moment. It was when I started successfully making recipes on my own, and especially when I saw how much pleasure it brought to those around me. I particularly remember a New Year’s Eve dinner that I cooked entirely for my family when I was 16. At that moment, I realised that this was what I wanted to do: create emotions through cooking.
AM: What do you like the most about Auvergnat cuisine? What sets it apart from other regions in France?
AD: What I love most about Auvergne cuisine is its sincerity. It is a cuisine of the territory, of the landscape, almost mineral in nature. It is linked to the soil, the climate and the seasons, with a certain ruggedness that becomes elegance when executed well.
My cuisine follows this philosophy, with an approach I describe as “telluric” and “riparian” [rivulaire]. Telluric, because it is deeply rooted in the soil, in minerals, in the earth’s energy. Riparian, because it follows the movement of water, the freshness, the liveliness, the balance. It is this tension between power and fluidity that drives me and which, I believe, also sets our approach apart.
AM: When did you make a plan to launch Origines? Did you always envision that it would be a hotel restaurant?
AD: The Origines project took shape quite naturally over time, but the location itself was an immediate certainty. When I visited this municipal building in Le Broc, I knew it had to be here and nowhere else. The cost, the constraints, the difficulties… all of that took a back seat. There was something very powerful about it, almost instinctive.
And right from the start, the idea of a fully-fledged living space, with a restaurant and accommodation, seemed the obvious choice for telling a broader story, linked to this region and its earthy identity.
AM: Which dish on the menu tends to be the most popular with guests?
AD: Today, one of the dishes that particularly impresses customers is the “crazy” lentil salad with warm vinegar. It is a dish that is very representative of the restaurant: simple in appearance, yet meticulously prepared, rooted in the local region, and full of depth and character. It strikes just the right balance between earthy depth and a livelier freshness.
AM: What do you like the most about Le Broc?
AD: What I love most about Le Broc is that sense of being rooted in the land. The landscape, the light, the mineral quality… it all resonates with my cooking. It’s a place that feels meaningful, that tells a story. There’s a natural connection between this place and what I want to express on the plate, particularly that duality between land and water.
AM: Any plans for opening other restaurants?
AD: At the moment, I’m fully focused on Origines. It’s a project that demands a great deal of commitment and precision. But of course, I have a long-term vision. If new projects do come to fruition, they must always be consistent with my identity, with this telluric and rivulet approach, and the values I uphold.
