In the early 1970s, the prospect of Star Trek-style interplanetary voyages seemed closer than ever before. The Soviets and the Americans had launched the first-ever space stations, and across the world people were reporting encounters with UFOs and off-puttingly weird humanoids. Then on 13 December 1973, something happened in the mountains outside Clermont-Ferrand that could be described as a “burning bush” moment.
While hiking among the puy de la Vache and puy de Lassolas volcanoes, Claude Vorilhon, a journalist from the Auvergne town of Ambert, spotted a flying saucer. After it landed, Vorilhon watched as the bearded and gnomish pilot disembarked. Despite his diminutive shape, the “Eloha” (as he called himself) claimed to possess the wisdom of the ages. Like Jehovah of the Old Testament, Elohim vouchsafed his aeonic knowledge to Vorilhon, his chosen messenger. Vorilhon became Raël, and a new “UFO religion” — Raëlianism — was born.
This wasn’t the first time that UFOs or related aerial phenomena had been reported in Auvergne. Long associated with legends of witches’ sabbaths and other diablerie, the puy de Dôme had made news in 1954 when locals described seeing flashing orbs near its summit. Centuries prior, in nearby villages like Besse and Pardines, eyewitnesses had also reported seeing mysterious globes de feu (globes of fire) and feux follets (will-o’-wisps). Good authority has it that these kinds of sightings occur to this day.
If you’re a UFO enthusiast or just someone who loves offbeat adventures, the list below, which provides an overview of the places you’re most likely to spot a UFO, is for you. All are easily reachable from Clermont-Ferrand by public transport, cycling, or car.
Puy de Dôme
At 1,465 metres, the puy de Dôme is undoubtedly Auvergne’s most iconic landmark. Revered both by the Gauls and the Romans, the volcano was formerly the site of a colossal temple complex dedicated to the god Mercury. The partially-restored ruins of this sacred site are still visible on the summit. To better your chances of seeing a UFO, get a flashlight and a warm blanket and leave for the puy de Dôme at twilight (between sunset and dusk). Grab a seat on its heathy, plateau-like peak and wait until midnight or the witching hour (around 3 am)…if you dare. In the event that you don’t see a UFO, you might see or hear something far eerier. It is a haunted mountain after all.
Puy de la Vache and puy de Lassolas
Known for their Martian-like, pozzolan soils, the puy de la Vache and the puy de Lassolas are situated about thirty minutes away from Clermont-Ferrand, in the village of Saint-Genès-Champanelle. To get to the Lassolas crater — the site of Raël’s 1973 encounter — set off from the nearby parking lot just off departmental road 5 (D5). The path, which winds and zigzags through beautiful patches of firs and brushwood, is best appreciated during the spring and late summer. Go there during a full moon and be willing to get a little lost among the shadows to get the full Raëlian experience. Who knows what interdimensional being might step out from behind the pines?
Puy de Montaudoux
Situated in the village of Ceyrat, the puy de Montaudoux is a heavily-foliaged, medium-sized volcano that rises above Clermont-Ferrand. In Roman times, the mountain was home to a sprawling amphitheatre — effectively a smaller-scale Colosseum. A wall of this ancient building, while unmarked by signage, can be still be seen by persevering and keen-eyed wayfarers. Getting there is an adventure in its own and involves a fair bit of ducking under and pushing through dense thickets of brambles and blackthorn.
Happily, the journey from Clermont to the summit of Montaudoux is much more straightforward. First, take the T2C 4 Bus from the Sablon Lafayette bus stop and alight at Pont de Vallières. Head southwest on the rue du Dr Lepetit and continue along the road as it merges into rue du Dr Lepetit Prolongée . Turn right at the first crossroad and follow the path upwards until you reach Montaudoux. The ideal time to make this trip is a crisp autumn’s eve, when the undergrowth is tamer and the sky is full of stars. If you don’t spot a UFO, you’ll at least get a spectacular view of Clermont’s glittering nightscape.
The Ruins of Montrognon
Last but not least on this list is Montrognon, the weather-beaten remains of what was once an imposing medieval fortress. Like Montaudoux, Montrognon lies a little outside Clermont, in the hills of Ceyrat. With its 360 panoramic views and stone ledges to sit on, Montrognon is perfect for evening or early-morning stake outs, especially if you have a spyglass. There’s a certain romance to this scene of astronomical speculation: the skyline of Greater Clermont stretching before you, the old-fashioned spyglass in hand, your spirit waiting for contact with worlds unknown. Dreariness often plagues daily life, but nature has its antidotes. This is one of them.
In the words of the American folklorist Charles G. Leland: “Minor local legends sink more deeply into the soul than greater histories.” To learn more about Clermont-Ferrand’s seemingly endless secrets, sign up for our newsletter below.
