While there’s plenty to see in Clermont-Ferrand, it inevitably happens that newcomers to the city — and even some work-burdened long-time residents — become intensely curious about the surrounding countryside. As their curiosity proliferates, feeding a deep-set wanderlust, they make plans to get out of the city for a day. Those with cars, free to adventure on their own terms, simply type coordinates into the GPS and zoom off into mountains. Those without cars, however, quickly find themselves enmeshed in a spider’s web of logistical issues as they chart a path to their destination of choice.
Too often, the consequence of this predicament is demotivation, which is unfortunate, since many points of interest are accessible via Clermont’s metropolitan transportation network. That’s why I’ve put together a straightforward mini-guide, a short list of scenic places to visit in greater Clermont-Ferrand without a car.
Château d’Opme
Did you know that you can use city buses to reach one of the oldest castles in Auvergne? And get this: you can do it in under an hour. The Château d’Opme is a beautifully situated eleventh century castle located in the former wine-making village of Romagnat. Tours of its interiors as well as its sprawling Renaissance garden are available throughout most of the year (prices for adults are a very affordable €6 per person). You can find an updated schedule of Opme’s opening hours here.
To get there on weekdays, take the 27 bus heading towards Romagnat/Clémensat from the Sablon Lafayette stop on the southwest corner of Jardin Lecoq. Alight at Clémensat — the final stop — and then head south on Rue de Luc. Follow this country road until you arrive at the Rue d’Opme/D3.
Head south on the rue d’Opme until you reach Opme cemetery. Across the road from the cemetery is the Allée du Verger, a small dirt path. Take it and continue walking for about five minutes until you reach the D120. Cross the street and continue on the Allée du Verger until it turns into the Rue du Verger. Continue walking straight and then make a right onto the Rue Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny.
On weekends, the best way to reach Opme is via bicycle. The route, which starts from the University of Clermont Auvergne CERDI campus at 26 Avenue Léon Blum, avoids major traffic zones and crosses through Beaumont and Aubière. The entire journey lasts about fifty minutes.
Royat
Royat is a historic spa town that boasts a wealth of things to do and see. In addition to its swimming and wellness centre, Royatonic, Royat also has a scenic riverside park, a casino, and a fortified, castle-like church (Saint Léger). Another highlight of the town is the Princesse Flore, a luxury hotel that features three popular restaurants.
Royat is easily reachable via public transport. Board bus B at the UCA Campus centre stop (across from the law school) and disembark at Royat Place Allard. The journey lasts roughly twenty minutes.
Montrognon
Erected during the 1100s by Robert I, Dauphin of Auvergne, Montrognon was once a vast, towering fortress — a cynosure of the ancient County of Clermont. A broodingly romantic ruin is all that remains of this medieval estate.
To get there, take the 4 bus heading towards Ceyrat/Pradeaux at Sabon Lafayette and alight at Wilson on Avenue Wilson. Then walk east on Rue de la Varenne and make your way to Rue de Montrognon. Continue on Rue de Montrognon, cross the overpass, and turn onto Avenue de Fontimbert. Follow this road until you arrive at a cul-de-sac. Walk past the house at 54 rue Fontimbert and the pedestrian path to Montrognon will be visible on your right.
The Châtaigneraie
Situated in Beaumont, the Châtaigneraie is an ancient woodland and nature reserve comprising numerous forage-friendly fruit and nut trees, including chestnut, plum, cherry, elderberry, and sloe.
Perhaps its most interesting feature is its pozzolan geological formations, which resemble the kind of hills one would expect see on planet Mars. Rising like miniature Vesuviuses, they provide refreshing views of Clermont-Ferrand’s cityscape.
The Châtaigneraie is about a thirty-minute bus ride from the city. At the UCA Campus centre stop, take the 4 Bus heading towards Ceyrat/Pradeau. Alight at Chapelle de l’Agneau and then head west onto the rue de Châtaigneraie. Stay on the road as it loops around the l’Hôpital Privé La Châtaigneraie to the park entrance.
Montjuzet
In many ways, Montjuzet (Parc Montjuzet) is the best way to “get out of Clermont” without actually leaving Clermont. The 26-hectare (64 acres) park features Mediterranean gardens as well as plenty of green space for picnics, exercising, and sunbathing. To get there, all you need to do is hop on the 9 bus heading towards Trémonteix Eychart at the UCA Campus Centre stop and alight at Chateaubriand. Afterwards, take the Rue du Montjuzet north and turn onto the Rue des Aubépines.
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