For centuries, Lake Pavin — the deepest lake in Auvergne — was perhaps the region’s most infamous “here-be-dragons” territory. Its icy, whirlpool-infested waters, locals claimed, were the gateway to a bona fide terra incognita, a realm populated by dragons, drowned souls, and Hell’s very own demon-spawn. Although it was formerly avoided for its reputedly monster-haunted depths, Pavin’s abyss now serves as a numinous environment for the ageing of underwater wine.
This particular tradition all started in 2016, when Riom-based winemaker Benoit Montel, accompanied by a team of divers, first placed barrels of his wine into the lake. We spoke to Montel to learn both about his process and about whether the lake — which has a unique biochemistry — has transferred any of its qualities into his underwater wine.
A.D. Manns: What inspired you to start aging wine in Lake Pavin? What kind of impact does the process have on the flavour or appearance of the wine?
Benoit Montel: Initially, we were looking for an idea to sell “original” wine for charity. I had a friend who grew his wine in the Mediterranean, and the idea was to try growing it in fresh water to see the difference. The idea was to try maturing the wine in fresh water to see the difference. The from the sale of these bottles is donated to ACTE Auvergne Auvergne (an association that looks after children with cancer).
We chose Lake Pavin because it’s one of Auvergne’s most emblematic lakes. This means that the wine is kept in a cool environment (4°C all year round) protected from light (25 m deep). On a large volume (i.e. a 228-litre barrel), this slows down the ageing of the wine. It comes out with the same fruitiness as when it was immersed. The colour is not altered. On the other hand, in corked bottles, the wine is much harder to taste harder to taste and less flattering.
AM: How long does it take to submerge the wine? How difficult or dangerous is it to bring the submerged wine back to the surface?
BM: We need a morning to immerse and bring out the wine. We need three professional divers, a boat, and a crane. The barrel is surrounded by stainless steel cylinders for pressure, weighted so that it can float between the two layers of water. The location of the barrel is marked by a buoy on the surface of the water. The first year, we were afraid we wouldn’t find the barrel and, above all, we feared that the water under the effect of the pressure might have entered the barrel.
AM: Lake Pavin has long been associated with a number of legends, some of which say that devils or dragons inhabit the lake. Were you aware of these tales before you started making your Pavin wines? Have you ever thought about creating a collection of Pavin wines that would pay homage to this local folklore?
BM: Yes, I was aware of the legends surrounding this mysterious lake (which is called the Devil’s Lake). However, the important thing was not the folklore of this lake but rather to find an original idea to sell bottles for charity.
AM: Which foods would you recommend pairing with the Pavin wines?
BM: For a barrel of white underwater wine, we recommend an Arctic char (a typical fish from the lake), trout with almonds, Bleu d’Auvergne, or Cantal doux. For the red barrel, Salers beef with a wine sauce, and Auvergne cheeses such as a Saint-Nectaire or an old Salers from Cantal.
AM: Overall, what in your view is the most unique aspect of Auvergne’s wines?
BM: The Gamay of Auvergne is characterised by its spicy, peppery flavour, due to a molecule called rotundone. Auvergne wines are fruity, with a basaltic character.
For more information on Benoit Montel’s wine — click the bottle below!
